tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-45123746853450003832024-03-15T00:35:52.809+10:00BMW E30 LoveIn May 2010, I bought my first BMW E30 - a 1989 318i 2-Door Sedan. I quickly fell in love with the car.
In March 2011, I acquired my ultimate dream E30 - a 1990 318is 2-Door Sedan; and 6 months later, sold the '89 318i.
This was a blog for write-ups of some of the projects I did on my cars.
Now (Feb 2012), I'm selling my 318is as I'll be moving overseas for work. I may not have another E30 for a long time but will leave this blog up for whoever it may benefit.darajmanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06195165606962377271noreply@blogger.comBlogger8125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4512374685345000383.post-75357930111778311442015-06-18T19:10:00.002+10:002015-06-21T16:13:34.561+10:00Quick Release Hood/ BonnetBenefits of this modification are easy and quick detachment of the bonnet without needing to re-align it when reinstalling.<br />
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<div style="text-align: center;">
<b>***The following content is not my own.***</b></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<b>***It is an exact reproduction of a post on the Facebook Page, E30 Squad.***</b></div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<b>***All credit is due to the original poster, Michael Hack***</b></div>
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DIY GUIDE FOR MAKING QUICK RELEASE HOOD PINS:<br />
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<b><span style="color: red;">DISCLAIMER: I am providing this DIY to be used at your own risk. This modification may have unknown effects on how your car will react in an accident.</span></b><br />
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<b><u>Tools needed:</u></b><br />
Hack Saw<br />
10mm open ended spanner<br />
10mm 1/4 socket and ratchet<br />
Drill<br />
2mm Drill bits (Multiple incase you break one)<br />
bench vice to make it easy<br />
Marker<br />
10mm bolts with at least 40mm smooth shaft, or something equivalent like steel rod or dowel<br />OR 10mm x 40mm Clevis Pin (skip steps 4-8)<br />
A decent File<br />
2x2mm Rclips or 2mm split pins or something similar<br />
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<img height="400" src="https://scontent-kul1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/11235333_494967120665562_8446000083730356890_n.jpg?oh=26aa572e236974857f7cc4e21bd74e94&oe=562BF364" width="300" /><br />
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STEP 1. Remove hood by removing the pin on the hood strut, then removing the 6x 6mm bolts holding hood to brackets and then disconnecting the windscreen washer hose.</div>
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<img height="300" src="https://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xta1/v/t1.0-9/11402769_494967147332226_4227609447181383904_n.jpg?oh=c2585e844180192f99847368ec13af2a&oe=55EDE74C&__gda__=1445340357_5a112fa84fa7f84ce91697e7c7455672" width="400" /><br />
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STEP 2. Rotate the brackets to expose the small factory hood bracket dowels</div>
<div style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;">
<img height="400" src="https://fbcdn-sphotos-d-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xap1/v/t1.0-9/11214717_494966963998911_1397402828248807932_n.jpg?oh=cfc375b72108575f7499631ef247f9bd&oe=55F0BE75&__gda__=1442418857_0f349360538ff705f7715beb440edc9f" width="300" /><br />
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STEP 3. Take the hacksaw and chop those dowels in half from the centre, then pull them out releasing hood brackets from the hood popping mech.</div>
<img height="400" src="https://scontent-kul1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/11148410_494966997332241_5374947427362702433_n.jpg?oh=542c5a729af4c35d9df28359f9d3940e&oe=562CEE33" width="300" /><br />
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STEP 4. just double checking the diameter of the bolts, must be no smaller than 10mm to not allow to much play in the hood and brackets.<br />
<img height="400" src="https://fbcdn-sphotos-a-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xtf1/v/t1.0-9/11407184_494967093998898_3733790158490508971_n.jpg?oh=274a110da313ce29b084c803366623ab&oe=562C9118&__gda__=1441153603_832226359884e862c997158cdc2442a7" width="300" /><br />
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STEP 5. Insert bolt into the bracket and mark where you need to cut, 40mm length should just about do it.<br />
<img height="400" src="https://fbcdn-sphotos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/11425762_494967083998899_3881971021763790847_n.jpg?oh=fbb9febcc68c303e726db0f7d6ffd57b&oe=55F07073&__gda__=1445368389_f5df3e1d8651e1edc7964f6fcd6b59f2" width="300" /><br />
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STEP 6. Use the vice to hold the bolt and cut at the marked line.<br />
<img height="400" src="https://scontent-kul1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xat1/v/t1.0-9/11248806_494967063998901_2893943811035231447_n.jpg?oh=9c8b4f6b222dbbb46924d7679c5199e3&oe=55EF18E3" width="300" /><br />
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STEP 7. Test fit again and mark where you want to drill the hole for the R-clip. Allow about 3-5mm from the edge in order for ease of removal.<br />
<img height="400" src="https://scontent-kul1-1.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/21020_494967150665559_7537788512018457497_n.jpg?oh=37a4c386f12b2d8a4fb516ca2b5e6ecf&oe=5624D384" width="300" /><br />
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STEP 8. Get the drill with a 2mm drill bit and start drilling a hole the whole way through the end of the bolt. A 2mm hole should suffice and a 2mm R-clip should be a good fit.<br />
<img height="400" src="https://fbcdn-sphotos-e-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xta1/v/t1.0-9/11401134_494967217332219_3834273976447056128_n.jpg?oh=83367d3f3cd6011067cba9b93496508a&oe=5624A15E&__gda__=1445714647_9cf39f123952e3e8724ac81e301f5990" width="313" /><br />
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STEP 9. Test fit the bolt and R-clip with the bracket onto the hood popper. If it fits, go ahead and re-install your hood. Align it up best you can and tighten the 6 bolts, reinstall the pin for the hood strut and re-attach the windscreen washer hose.<br />
<img height="400" src="https://fbcdn-sphotos-b-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfp1/v/t1.0-9/21006_494966967332244_2534838129761918341_n.jpg?oh=156b143230aa593d1a5a1b993ca91d65&oe=56342226&__gda__=1445712421_59dbb12b9c3861d1bf62a9b3b3cd7f30" width="300" /><br />
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The next time you need to remove the hood, it is as simple as removing the pin for the hood strut, removing the R-clips and slipping out the two pins and you’re done.<br />
<br />darajmanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06195165606962377271noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4512374685345000383.post-16541849817608800002015-04-05T21:20:00.000+10:002015-12-31T19:26:41.284+10:00EASIEST & CHEAPEST E30 Engine SwapTo start off, please be well aware that ANY engine swap is neither going to be "easy" nor "cheap". If it is, expect it to cost more money and cause headaches in the near future. If using a second hand engine, it should be fully reconditioned and have all wearing parts replaced before it goes into the car.<br />
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Of all the options, the M30 (B34 or B35 depending on which you can get your hands on) swap is the easiest and cheapest. Why? Absolutely every step of the swap is a bolt-in job.<br />
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Hartge and Alpina both built M30B35 based E30's (Hartge H35 and Alpina B6 3.5) Also, BMW released a limited number of M30B32 fitted E30s in the South African market (333i which was jointly developed by BMW and Alpina). That means that every part you need can be obtained from the said OEM suppliers. A wrecked E28 or early E34 535i or M535i would make an inexpensive donor.<br />
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The engines themselves are old technology, single-cam design. This makes working ON the engine much simpler than with more modern engines. Having been designed in an age where many things were "over-engineered" they are extremely tough and resilient. After a rebuild, very basic maintenance will have them running strong almost forever. They also handle forced induction well in their stock form.<br />
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The down-side of the older technology is that they won't be as fuel efficient as modern twin-cam engines. No matter how it's tuned, the torque curve will never be as broad as that of a twin-cam engine. Speaking of torque, this thing will pour out bucket-loads of it as soon as you touch the go-pedal.<br />
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The power figures of this engine will be less than impressive, but that's not what it's about. It's TORQUE and at the end of the day, it's what matters. Torque is the turning force exerted at the engine flywheel on the drive-train, which is what is actually driving the wheels.<br />
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Sources on the internet estimate these stats:<br />
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0-100km/h: 6.7 sec<br />
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Top speed: 240 km / h<br />
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10-13.5 Liter / 100km<br />
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If I were to do a swap on an E30 and wanted the least hassle, where every step was just a case of turning a wrench, the M30 is the way I'd go.darajmanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06195165606962377271noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4512374685345000383.post-77712656369510005332015-04-04T03:54:00.003+10:002015-12-31T19:39:50.421+10:00The Best Car EVER BuiltIf you could only own 1 car for your entire life, what would it be?<br />
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For me, the answer will always be a Manual Touring BMW E30 (With an M30B35). Only a few of these were made for the South African market.<br />
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<b><u>More doors, more awesome!</u></b><br />
The practicality of 4-doors is simply unbeatable. This isn't ONLY about carrying passengers. When you do your grocery shopping, it's so much easier to be able to just open the back door, put the items in the foot-well or on the backseat, than to walk around to the boot (trunk to you Americans).<br />
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If you have a family, you want the back seat to be easily accessible for mounting and taking out the baby seat, for your passengers to easily and quickly get in and out.<br />
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<b><u>Ample Luggage space!</u></b><br />
Fit absolutely anything you want in your car! Do track days? Take your entire tool kit and your spare wheels with you IN your track car.<br />
Need to spend the night on the road? Put the back seats down and stretch yourself out in the trunk. Oh and it will carry your groceries in the back too.<br />
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<b><u>A backseat that works!</u></b><br />
Plenty of 2-door sports cars have back seats, it's just that the backseats are strictly meant to be used by people with no legs. If there's no leg room for the rear passenger, why even bother having a rear seat? An E30 can comfortably accommodate 4-5 average sized adults.<br />
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<b><u>Featherweight Handling</u></b><br />
It's a wagon that weighs under 3000lbs distributed front-rear at close to 50:50, with the lively character of an FR layout.<br />
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<b><u>6cyl Power & Torque: more VROOM!</u></b><br />
NEVER has there been a 4-door production car of any kind, let alone a wagon, with as much interior room, AND as little weight (less than 3000lbs), more powerful engine. There are plenty of other "sports" sedans and wagons you can compare to the E30 that have more powerful engines and do go faster in a straight line. Problem is that every single one of them is heavier and as a result, handles like a brick in comparison.<br />
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<b><u>RWD = More FUN!</u></b><br />
Need I explain?<br />
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It pains me to no end, that with all the advancements in engineering and technology, not a single car manufacturer has built a car that can tick the same boxes that this car from the 80's does.<br />
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If I could get myself a brand new 4-door E30 equivalent, I would in a heartbeat. If anyone makes an E30 replica kit, I'll be the one of the first to pre-order. It's ridiculous that cobra kits are all the craze when you could get a Mazda MX-5, swap a V8 into it and have a better car for less work and less money. Yet, nobody has bothered to make an E30 kit? E30 Tourer's are already rarer than rainbow fairy unicorns. Someone please do before these cars go completely extinct!<br />
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<br />darajmanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06195165606962377271noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4512374685345000383.post-92147616110614518992015-02-25T20:39:00.001+10:002015-12-31T19:58:53.621+10:00Best E30 Wheel + Tyre Combo<i><b>This is MY opinion on what is best and below is the justification for it.</b></i><br />
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15x7J ET13 with 205/50R15 Tyres.<br />
The extremely sexy but rare MiM E30 wheels are of this size and fitment.<br />
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<b>15" only? Why not bigger?</b><br />
The only reason for bigger wheels is bigger brakes. E30's are super-light and don't need bigger brake discs. Aesthetically, 15" wheels beautifully compliment the E30's retro character, while still allowing plenty of performance tyre options. Yes, it's true that bigger wheels also allow lower profile tyres, but I will discuss that later on. For now, let me just say that bigger wheels add more unsprung weight. More weight in general can adversely affect acceleration, braking, handling, fuel economy.<br />
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<b>7J? Why not wider?</b><br />
When looking at your car, it's not very noticeable how wide your wheels are. If you want them to sit wide, you need only choose a lower offset. 7J wheels are the narrowest wheels that will ideally suit 205 width tyres (remember: wider wheels are heavier). You can go wider if you want wider tyres, but as discussed below, I don't think the E30 needs tyres wider than 205. </div>
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<b>ET13? Why not lower?</b><br />
At 7J width, ET13 will sit very flush, and when the suspension compresses, they will JUST clear the guards. With 7J wheels, ET13 is the widest fitment that will clear the guards. If you go for a more aggressive stance, you'll need guard work done (more $$$).</div>
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<b>205 only? Why not wider?</b><br />
Unless your E30 is HEAVILY modified, 205's will provide all the traction you need. Wider tyres will give better traction but they'll also add more unsprung weight. Also keep in mind that with a RWD car, breaking traction every now and then = FUN.</div>
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<b>/50? Why not lower profile?</b><br />
Lower profile tyres will provide you with more responsive handling due to reduced side-wall flex. However, at 205 width, the lowest profile you can get to fit 15" wheels is 50. Good quality performance tyres will perform very well, and you need not worry about side-wall flex destroying your lap times. You're better off worrying about your driving skills. More importantly, I believe E30's are such a pleasure to drive that they SHOULD be daily driven. If there are lots of potholes in your area, lower profile tyres mean you're more likely to damage or bend your wheels which means more $$$. Higher profile will give you that extra cushion for your precious wheels.<br />
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<b><u>Other useful info:</u></b><br />
All major tyre companies offer performance tyres in the 205/50R15 size.<br />
If you wish to use a different wheel size, use the above numbers as a guide and put in your planned sizes into http://www.willtheyfit.com/. This will help you work out the offset you need to get a similar fitment.<br />
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<u><b>E30 Wheel Fitment Sizes:</b></u><br />
PCD 4x100, centre bore 57.1mm and M12x1.5 bolt thread.<br /><br /><b><u>Some 7J Wheel Choices:</u></b></div>
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MiM's 15x7J ET13<br />
Koya AE Tek 15x7J ET13<br />
Work Meister S1 2P (O-Disk) 15x7J ET13 *Check Hub Bore</div>
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If you really want wider tyres, you can go 15x8J ET22 with 225/45R15 Tyres. Be aware that running any higher offset than ET22 with 8J wheels may not clear the front struts. And you may need to do some guard rolling for them not to rub.<br />
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<b><u>Some 8J Wheel Choices:</u></b><br />
Rota Flush 15x8J ET20 *Check Hub Bore<br />
Work Meister S1 2P (O-Disk) 15x8J ET22 *Check Hub Bore</div>
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Work Meister CR01 (A-Disk) 15x8J ET22 *Check Hub Bore</div>
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darajmanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06195165606962377271noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4512374685345000383.post-79955899533625761462011-07-20T00:00:00.003+10:002011-11-11T18:56:59.928+10:00Removing & Replacing/Installing Sunroof (for Realignment)<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">RUST is a common problem with ALL car sunroofs. My car was no different. The rear right corner of the sunroof had rusted through so badly that it had been patched up with filler right up to the edge. A good area of about 20 square centimetres was all body filler.<br />
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I managed to get hold of a used sunroof panel for cheap. It's black while my car is white but I thought what the heck - at least it's not all rusty and bogged. The replacement panel had some surface rust spots which I treated and repaired before putting it in.<br />
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The following is a guide to removing and re-installing the sunroof panel on BMW E30's. It should be the same method for other BMW models of the same generation as the E30.<br />
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Allow yourself about 90 minutes if you're doing it for the first time.<br />
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<strong><u>Tools & Materials Required:</u></strong><br />
<ul><li>Torx (Star) keys/wrench set.</li>
<li>Pliers</li>
<li>Socket Driver</li>
<li>Penetrating spray</li>
</ul><strong><span style="color: red;">NOTE: Pictures shown for manual crank operated sunroof. Method is the same for electric/power sunroof. If you are unable to crank the sunroof by power (eg: sunroof motor failed, flat battery, etc.), what you need to do is undo the trim for the sunroof motor, and then crank it manually. You'll need to use the Z shaped wrench in the boot toolkit or a hex wrench of the correct size. See your owners manual for detailed instructions and diagrams.</span></strong><br />
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<strong>1. Wind back sunroof </strong>to expose the front edge of the panel. There are 6 trim clips that hold the inner lining to the sunroof panel at the front. You won't be able to see them but you can feel them with your hands. Use the images below as a reference to see where the fastening clips are. Carefully pull down on the front edge of the inner lining to disconnect it. <br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHQdXkwpIS3NpUoGVoo-Snmd0GTFHGU2sADl7G5EvuXB981zUWSDBOmYnSYnY7yskFaz6v_R8o90Y1dO7NwNnsF30sENXuzPsP-iMAy6eixEUkz_N9m_DXtfkxbz88YbMOMDNM0Rv1olk/s1600/P1000805.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgHQdXkwpIS3NpUoGVoo-Snmd0GTFHGU2sADl7G5EvuXB981zUWSDBOmYnSYnY7yskFaz6v_R8o90Y1dO7NwNnsF30sENXuzPsP-iMAy6eixEUkz_N9m_DXtfkxbz88YbMOMDNM0Rv1olk/s320/P1000805.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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<strong>2. Wind forward the sunroof</strong> to expose the rear edge of the sunroof panel. Simply pull/push the inner lining backwards so that the rollers on the sunroof cranking mechanism are off the guides on the inner liner. The inner liner should just drop down and away from the sunroof panel. <br />
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Slide the inner lining backwards into the roof of the car to expose the under side of the sunroof panel.<br />
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<strong>3. Unscrew the sunroof panel. </strong>There are three torx bolts on each side of the sunroof panel that hold it to the cranking mechanism. <strong><span style="color: red;">NOTE: If you are only re-aligning the sunroof, you need only loosen the torx bolts enough to realign the sunroof panel. You DON'T have to completely remove them.</span></strong><br />
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Use the appropriate size torx wrench/bit to undo them - the bolts in mine were T25 size but yours might be different. I had to use a pair of pliers to get enough leverage to break them loose as they were on extremely tight. It would be better to use a socket driver instead of the pliers for leverage. Some lubricant or penetrating spray would come in very handy.<br />
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<strong>4. Remove the sunroof panel. </strong>Once all the torx bolts are out, the sunroof panel should simply lift off the top of the car.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9Q9iVEbr67hMvRNggl4bK3N5v9xuEPuTSabwg73TKQATB_jwgjVlXGbDPScrZz79oOvqq40B8f3g1tQTstYuRW-1ldwGhwhyCpNznE2W85zBb0si52MKf8zRnwhGdn4WlnsLGRKqFiNY/s1600/P1000817.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9Q9iVEbr67hMvRNggl4bK3N5v9xuEPuTSabwg73TKQATB_jwgjVlXGbDPScrZz79oOvqq40B8f3g1tQTstYuRW-1ldwGhwhyCpNznE2W85zBb0si52MKf8zRnwhGdn4WlnsLGRKqFiNY/s320/P1000817.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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<strong>5. Fit replacement sunroof panel </strong>into the cranking mechanism guides exactly where the old one was. Line up the holes where the torx bolts are supposed to go. Loosely thread the torx bolts back into the holes by hand. Remember to do it in this order: middle bolts first, then front ones, lastly the rear ones.<br />
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<strong>6. Align the sunroof.</strong> This is where you will greatly benefit from the help of a friend. First crank the sunroof to the closed position. Then, get your friend to hold the rear of the sunroof 1mm above the roof-line. While your friend is doing this, get inside and tighten up all the torx bolts. <br />
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<strong>7. Reinstall the sunroof inner lining. </strong>First crank the sunroof to the forward position. Slide the inner roof lining out and connect the rear part first. Pull it up and out towards the rear of the car and then slide the grooves on the lining piece over the rollers on each side of the sunroof cranking mechanism.<br />
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And lastly, push the trim clips along the front of the inner lining up into the corresponding holes at the front of the sunroof panel.<br />
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JOB DONE!!!</div>darajmanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06195165606962377271noreply@blogger.com14tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4512374685345000383.post-48833937692924753312011-02-26T21:39:00.002+10:002011-11-11T18:48:00.211+10:00Hood/Bonnet Gas Strut Replacement<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on"><br />
The E30 hood is one of the many things I love about the car. It just looks SO COOL opening with the hinge at the front.<br />
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When open it doesn't have a beam that hooks into it to hold it up, instead it has a gas strut. As with all gas struts, they get worn over time and repeated use. The one on my car was no different, when I have the hood open on a windy day, it will once in a while just get blown back just enough to slam shut. One time, I was changing the filter when it came down on my head... yes, it did hurt.<br />
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It's a very simple job - all you need is a new strut (very inexpensive) and a flat head screw driver.<br />
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<strong><u>Tools Required:</u></strong><br />
<ul><li>Flat-head screw driver</li>
<li><em>Grinder*</em></li>
</ul><em>*Note: The strut that I got was a cheaper, aftermarket one and its ends were very thick compared to the OEM strut. So, I had to grind one of the ends of mine to get it to fit. So, if you want things to be simple and straight forward, GET THE OEM STRUT!</em><br />
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<strong>1. Locate the strut.</strong><br />
Open the hood, and you'll find the strut working on a hinged arm at the front right side of the engine bay. The strut itself will be positioned along the inside of the top of the fender, near the windshield washer reservoir.<br />
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<strong>2. Remove the old strut.</strong><br />
There will be 2 circlips, one at each end of the strut. Use the flat-head screw driver to lift the tab on the clips and slide them out. Careful not to drop them or lose them as you will have to re-use these! <strong><span style="color: red;">CAUTION: Use your back, or the help of a friend to hold the hood open before you remove the circlips!</span></strong> While holding the hood up, remove the old strut by sliding off each end from its supporting studs.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbbKKBGYgu7yuw4IsX4bcM0XOdwt3G46_rnk0rMRl6dVXj6v_dv9z36mBlkFVCD1AaLkLOMTslkFngINsF6wOvO-LhA9Srn4m9gkMByuxf_YyM304KrwNU5z9-FxpYsYO6yJMck6YrP80/s1600/P1000777.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" l6="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjbbKKBGYgu7yuw4IsX4bcM0XOdwt3G46_rnk0rMRl6dVXj6v_dv9z36mBlkFVCD1AaLkLOMTslkFngINsF6wOvO-LhA9Srn4m9gkMByuxf_YyM304KrwNU5z9-FxpYsYO6yJMck6YrP80/s320/P1000777.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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<strong>3. Grind the piston end of the strut. (Skip this step if not necessary)</strong><br />
It was fine on the barrel end but with the piston end (which joins to the arm) it was too thick to allow any room to put the circlip on. I could have left it with just the one circlip but I just didn't feel comfortable with that idea. So, I used my rotary tool with the stone grinding bit (as pictured) to grind the end of the strut down to half the thickness. If you don't have a grinder, you should take it to a workshop or mechanic and ask them to do it for you.<br />
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<strong><span style="color: red;">NOTE: To avoid this problem, make sure you buy the genuine BMW strut! The one I used was a cheaper, aftermarket one.</span></strong><br />
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<strong>4. Fit the new strut.</strong><br />
Simply slide the new strut on where the old one was and just slide the circlips back into place with your hands. JOB DONE!<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUslWXQf0AU7gNzcopBnUepI73Sv_SCUzELWLUo_Zo411qKO5zbIlgzzITapChuinQRANqQPrCWjT6bv9kCdM4SdPlK2nLIP4vKkLAkiaNSzfDK5l95dGWxwO0Blz9EgLcOK9UBCkttxo/s1600/P1000797.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" l6="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUslWXQf0AU7gNzcopBnUepI73Sv_SCUzELWLUo_Zo411qKO5zbIlgzzITapChuinQRANqQPrCWjT6bv9kCdM4SdPlK2nLIP4vKkLAkiaNSzfDK5l95dGWxwO0Blz9EgLcOK9UBCkttxo/s320/P1000797.JPG" width="320" /></a></div></div>darajmanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06195165606962377271noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4512374685345000383.post-69074225444104506032011-01-03T14:38:00.059+10:002011-11-11T17:58:24.267+10:00Changing E30 Fuel Pump<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">One of the first things I did with my E30 was changing the fuel pump. My Australian '89 318i has 1 in-tank pump located under the rear seat cushion, on the right side. The last thing I wanted was for the fuel pump to die when I was in a hurry to get somewhere and then be stuck on the side of the road. It's a fairly simple job which can be done by the amateur DIY'er. It's really just a 1 hour job but if it's your first time, allow yourself about 3 hours.<br />
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<u><b>Symptoms of a soon to fail fuel pump:</b></u><br />
<ol><li><b>Noise -</b> a dieing fuel pump will make a constant humming/buzzing noise when running, which will be very clearly audible from inside the cabin. Some aftermarket fuel pumps are known to do this just when the car first starts up but the noise goes away after the engine has been running for a few minutes.</li>
<li><strong>Difficulty starting -</strong> The engine turns and the sparks are all working but the engine doesn't want to fire or it starts with some difficulty, coughing and sputtering. </li>
<li><b>Erratic idling</b> - When idling, the RPM's seem to dance up and down as though someone is slightly revving the engine on and off from a lower than normal idle speed.</li>
<li><strong>Fouled spark plugs</strong> - If your fuel pump isn't getting enough fuel to the engine, the engine will be running a leaner fuel mixture (lower fuel:air ratio). A long term effect of running on a lean fuel mixture is fouled spark plugs.</li>
<li><strong>Abrupt stalling/jerking</strong> - While driving, you may notice the engine stall or almost cut out. Fuel isn't the only possible cause.</li>
</ol>These were just some of the symptoms that I noticed that lead me to suspect a bad fuel pump, but there may be others. Also note that, symptoms 2-5 could also be due to faults in other areas of fuel system - such as blockages in the lines, filter or injectors. Symptoms 2,3 and 5 can also be due to problems in air intake system (insufficient air/blockage) or ignition system (inconsistent spark). Just remember that the 3 things that a combustion engine needs to run are air, fuel and spark.<br />
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<u><b>Options for replacement fuel pump:</b></u><br />
<ul><li>BMW OEM (Bosch) - $170</li>
<li>Walbro 255LPH GSS340 - $120</li>
<li><strong><span style="color: red;">Generic Brand 340 255LPH High Performance Fuel Pump - $70-120.</span></strong></li>
</ul><ul></ul><em>*Prices shown include shipping to Brisbane, Australia.</em><br />
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The OEM pump was ruled out straight away simply because it has a lower flow-rate which doesn't allow for any future modifications where higher fuel flow may be required and is $50 more expensive than the other two. However, if you've got a stock-standard car and want to keep it that way, you're probably better off spending the extra money for the Bosch - simply because they make the most durable fuel pumps.<br />
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Walbro is very well known in the aftermarket/ performance fuel pump scene. They've been around for a while and earned themselves a good reputation. All their pumps come with a 1-year warranty and they're known to perform.<br />
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Ebay and Amazon are loaded with generic brand aftermarket fuel pumps. One such brand that I found on Ebay was TRE Performance. These generic brand of pumps are designed just like Walbros and have identical model numbers to suit various vehicles. Difference is that they're a bit cheaper and have slightly higher fuel flow rates. They've also got a better warranty than Walbro. 1-year <b>replacement</b> warranty, <b>AND a 30-day money back guarantee.</b><br />
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After doing some research on internet forums and reading about people's experiernces with these pumps, the High Flow was the obvious winner. Although Walbro are the bigger name, a lot of people have commented that they are noisy. If your car is a daily driver, this can be a particularly important factor to consider.<br />
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So to sum it up, <strong><span style="color: red;">the TRE-340 is the best e30 fuel pump for the money.</span></strong> Those who have used the TRE don't seem to have any complaints. I've had the same TRE pump in my car since June 2010 (it's now September 2011), and I've had absolutely no problems. Not only that, I have NEVER heard it! It's reasonably priced, high fuel flow, dead quiet, and easy to install.<br />
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<u><b>Tools Required:</b></u><br />
<ul><li>Phillip's Head (Cross-Head) Screw Driver.</li>
<li>Lots of rags/ towels.</li>
<li>Car detailing/ cleaning spray.</li>
<li>Vacuum cleaner.</li>
<li>Ratchet</li>
<li>Socket set including some very small sockets around 4-10mm's.</li>
<li>Small 8-13mm hose clamps (as required).</li>
<li><em>Soldering iron.*</em></li>
<li><em>Heat-shrink and hot air gun.*</em></li>
<li><em>Die-grinder or flat file.*</em></li>
</ul><i>*Note: You can get away without what is marked with an asterisk. You could take your fuel pump cradle and the new pump to a mechanic or auto electrician to have them grind, and solder your new pump in for you. It should only cost about half-an-hour's worth of labour. This would be a lot cheaper than getting them to do the whole job for you, or the cost of buying these tools.</i><br />
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<strong>1. Locate the fuel pump.</strong><br />
Remove the back seat cushion and the insulation under it. The back seat cushion should come off by just sharply pulling upwards on the front end of the cushion.<em> </em>You might want to vacuum clean the area under the seat at this point. You'll probably find some coins and other small items that mysteriously went missing from the back of your car. There will be an oval shaped black plastic panel held by 4 phillip's screws. Undo the screws and remove this panel to reveal the top of your in-tank fuel pump. Use a soft sponge/cloth to clean this area with the car detailing spray and make sure the area around the fuel pump is clean before you proceed. You want to minimise the amount of dirt/dust that gets into your fuel tank while the fuel pump is out.<br />
<div style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5wBZn90Lkt9uhFNVmHnsWLWZrQdC4_bmgvnftSMND-7b2xgA8uGZwiVmXp5_WLA6SBglbrIfoCK7YTzEeCJvnekeDHf-blN-oaVXxPVmvHkHi1lwaXFXipQ5cGqBG4NBBq7ZkJCDa3wQ/s1600/1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" n4="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5wBZn90Lkt9uhFNVmHnsWLWZrQdC4_bmgvnftSMND-7b2xgA8uGZwiVmXp5_WLA6SBglbrIfoCK7YTzEeCJvnekeDHf-blN-oaVXxPVmvHkHi1lwaXFXipQ5cGqBG4NBBq7ZkJCDa3wQ/s320/1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<strong>2. Remove the fuel gauge sender. </strong><br />
Disconnect the electrical connectors for the fuel pump and the fuel gauge sender. Take a picture of how the hoses are connected to the fuel pump cradle, and then disconnect the hoses by loosening the hose clamps as required. My hose clamps were very old and had become brittle - they just snaped off so I had to replace them with new ones. Undo the 4 nuts that hold the fuel gauge sender to the fuel pump cradle and lift it out. <strong><span style="color: red;">Make sure you have some thick rags/towels handy because if there's fuel in the tank, the fuel sender is going to be dripping with fuel.</span><span style="color: red;"> You don't want fuel spillage anywhere inside your car!</span></strong><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><strong>3. Remove the fuel pump.</strong></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Turn the fuel pump assembly and lift it out carefully. This can be rather fiddly so you might want to get a friend to capture on video how you take it out because you'll have to do the reverse of this to get it back in later. <strong><span style="color: red;">Again - make sure you have lots of thick rags/towels so that you don't spill any fuel inside your car!</span></strong> There should be a rubber washer/gasket that sits between the top of the fuel pump assembly and the fuel tank. Keep this to re-use later or replace it if necessary. Once the fuel pump is out, use a clean rag/towel to cover the hole and make sure you leave your car with its doors/windows wide open and well ventilated while it's waiting to get the new pump installed.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs_CiM-xgNLX0y507uMQaRyuUwvVA9aKVZ1aom35cwI9cqJUhT7I3UGJYsYxz6Rk2luhXOseQ35zikAfAYAcUhddoE6KRzbW2QmTBCrIAfgF15eqe5SDLWDCnLhJu7Pu7sAoohLmMMSB4/s1600/2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" n4="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgs_CiM-xgNLX0y507uMQaRyuUwvVA9aKVZ1aom35cwI9cqJUhT7I3UGJYsYxz6Rk2luhXOseQ35zikAfAYAcUhddoE6KRzbW2QmTBCrIAfgF15eqe5SDLWDCnLhJu7Pu7sAoohLmMMSB4/s320/2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
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</div><strong>4. Disassemble the old fuel pump from the cradle. </strong>Have a good look at the items included with your new pump and also at how the old fuel pump is assembled in the cradle. You should already have an idea how you're going to fit the new pump in the cradle. Also note how the filter is fitted at the bottom and which direction it is facing. The filter will come off with a firm pull - you can also pry it with a flat screw driver.<br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><strong>5. Grind or file the protruding lip on the bottom of the cradle.</strong></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy9jXaXiI9Y5m7jMpp1s-_tjs5EmT6N6cut2txq6gN-vzZ6SV8igD97y1mxPjkLME6Czam9wk1QUKJfZuVSdytXiNhRdN4e37J7Kv8Z31U0okCLihty8dJ_-m1fNl_aQdKYMTvrzn7ptU/s1600/7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" n4="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy9jXaXiI9Y5m7jMpp1s-_tjs5EmT6N6cut2txq6gN-vzZ6SV8igD97y1mxPjkLME6Czam9wk1QUKJfZuVSdytXiNhRdN4e37J7Kv8Z31U0okCLihty8dJ_-m1fNl_aQdKYMTvrzn7ptU/s320/7.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<strong>6. Remove the old wires and solder in the new connector.</strong> Take note of which terminals are the +ve and -ve on the cradle. Typically, red = +ve and black = -ve. Use the soldering iron and some new solder to melt off the old wires from the terminals at the top of the cradle. <strong><span style="color: red;">BE CAREFUL NOT TO MELT THE PLASTIC PIECE SEPARATING THE + and - terminals! </span></strong>By test fitting the new fuel pump, cut the new connector wires to the right length and allow an extra 2-3cm in length - <span style="color: red;"><strong>It's ok if the wire is too long but you don't want it too</strong> </span><strong><span style="color: red;">short</span><span style="color: red;">.</span></strong> Then strip the tips to reveal their cores and solder them in ensuring that the +ve and -ve wires are soldered to the correct terminals. <span style="color: red;"><strong>BE CAREFUL NOT TO MELT THE PLASTIC PIECE SEPARATING THE + and - terminals!</strong></span><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvmqzByeQd1bQ78ZxnnhMcWqfTV5WVqVjp3RB8kK9ER3slKAsF02r9fzZEd-ZiaXU2tbXlNAOZGZLAR_OxT0Wilb7cC5oSeJq4QJaN-ViT9H92sqW_HCLWVVkphLh4TZ37WJLWqvN1WOQ/s1600/10.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" n4="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvmqzByeQd1bQ78ZxnnhMcWqfTV5WVqVjp3RB8kK9ER3slKAsF02r9fzZEd-ZiaXU2tbXlNAOZGZLAR_OxT0Wilb7cC5oSeJq4QJaN-ViT9H92sqW_HCLWVVkphLh4TZ37WJLWqvN1WOQ/s320/10.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<strong>7. Prepare the new fuel pump for fitting. </strong>Put the rubber insulation jackets on the fuel pump. There is one shorter one for the bottom of the fuel pump, and another one to cover the rest of it. First put the bottom one on and then slide the longer one on from the other end. Make sure that all of the fuel pumps sides are covered - see the picture below.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy9jXaXiI9Y5m7jMpp1s-_tjs5EmT6N6cut2txq6gN-vzZ6SV8igD97y1mxPjkLME6Czam9wk1QUKJfZuVSdytXiNhRdN4e37J7Kv8Z31U0okCLihty8dJ_-m1fNl_aQdKYMTvrzn7ptU/s1600/7.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" n4="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy9jXaXiI9Y5m7jMpp1s-_tjs5EmT6N6cut2txq6gN-vzZ6SV8igD97y1mxPjkLME6Czam9wk1QUKJfZuVSdytXiNhRdN4e37J7Kv8Z31U0okCLihty8dJ_-m1fNl_aQdKYMTvrzn7ptU/s320/7.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<strong>8. Fit the new rubber hose. </strong>Test fit the new fuel pump and cut the replacement hose to the right length. The length should be so that when the hose is fully pushed down onto the fuel pump, the other end of the hose should come up to near the bend in the piping on the cradle - see picture below. Then push the hose as far as possible onto the cradle - even up along the bend in the piping and slide both the included hose clamps onto the hose sitting loosely. Then fit the new fuel pump onto the cradle, slide the hose down over the pump nozzle, and then tighten the hose clamps at each end of the hose to secure it.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5ScKQ9oHybAUijDfzqEyJGoTIMGHbd4NWMLPUeGYcE11YwGaEW7WqWV1AMlc5MYwkVsNHSAUq10DkyGwFXnV69_adtLloDIAMzExuvY1vPG6LdnXqy-bOasrxS7I7cRs-OsSmRvGMfV8/s1600/8.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" n4="true" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5ScKQ9oHybAUijDfzqEyJGoTIMGHbd4NWMLPUeGYcE11YwGaEW7WqWV1AMlc5MYwkVsNHSAUq10DkyGwFXnV69_adtLloDIAMzExuvY1vPG6LdnXqy-bOasrxS7I7cRs-OsSmRvGMfV8/s320/8.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
<strong>9. Fit the new filter onto the bottom of the fuel pump. </strong>Just have to push it on firmly. Make sure that the long end of it is facing the same direction as the old filter.<br />
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<strong>10. Install the new fuel pump in the car. </strong>Simply do the reverse of how you removed it to reinstall it. Re-connect the hoses connecting to the piping on top of the cradle and tighten the hose clamps. Re-install the fuel gauge sender and tighten the 4 nuts to secure it in place. <span style="color: red;"><strong>When tightening these nuts, be careful to not over-tighten and strip the threads.</strong></span> Join the electrical connectors for the fuel gauge sender and the fuel pump. <strong><span style="color: red;">START THE CAR to make sure it's all working fine!</span></strong> Put the black cover back on and tighten the 4 screws to secure it. To put the back-seat back on, simply line up the clips on the under side of the seat to the clips on the car body and push down on the seat to secure it in place.<br />
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<strong>Acknowledgements:</strong><br />
<div class="smallfont">M42club forum user: jrw21. </div><div class="smallfont">Images were taken from a post on 18 Oct 2009,<br />
on forum thread titled: DIY Fuel Pump Replacement.</div></div>darajmanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06195165606962377271noreply@blogger.com7tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4512374685345000383.post-30616722958073196142010-10-28T16:20:00.007+10:002011-11-12T02:16:16.179+10:00Hello Cookie, The 1989 318i<div dir="ltr" style="text-align: left;" trbidi="on">This is the story of how I found and bought my first E30. For those of you looking to buy a used car, this should give you some tips on what to look out for.<br />
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<u><b>Searching far and wide...</b></u><br />
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The obvious starting point is the internet. From searching on the big car trading websites such as eBay, Trading Post and Car Sales, I noticed 2 things:<br />
<br />
1. Cars are generally cheaper in NSW than in QLD.<br />
2. BMW E30's in QLD are mostly Auto's and the Manual ones for sale are mostly in other states.<br />
<br />
In May 2010, I drove from Brisbane to Sydney in search of a Manual BMW E30.<br />
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<u><b>Budget and criteria...</b></u><br />
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I had a very tight budget - I was only prepared to spend about $3000 at the absolute most and was hoping to spend closer to $2000.<br />
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Of course with a car that's 20+ years old, it will be just that! It's not going to be in perfect condition and I had to be prepared to make a few compromises. I had the following criteria:<br />
<ul><li>Low mileage (not more than 200,000km).</li>
<li>Manual transmission.</li>
<li>Very minor or NO accident history - I want the chassis to be completely straight.</li>
<li>Little or NO rust.</li>
<li>Roadworthy and easy to register - it was going to be my only car and needs to be fit to be a daily driver.</li>
<li>Mechanically good - with no major concerns.</li>
<li>Interior in reasonably tidy condition with all the electrics working.</li>
</ul>Those of you who are E30 enthusiasts would be thinking "yeah keep dreaming".<br />
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With a bit of divine intervention, I managed to find my Alpine White '89 318i 2-Door Sedan.<br />
<br />
After getting it inspected by Pedro, the Fast and Furious Mobile Mechanic. I got it from a car dealer at a very reasonable price - $2800 Drive-away. So I traded in my old car and happily drove it back to Brisbane.<br />
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<u><b>What kind of condition was it in?</b></u><br />
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<b>Service History:</b> It had the service log book stamped for every single service from when it was brand new and it had all been done by BMW. A very nice bonus indeed.<br />
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<b>Mileage & First Impressions:</b> 185,000km that's well under an average of 10,000kms per year! <br />
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<b>Sunroof:</b> As with all sunroofs, this one had gotten rusty at one point and had been repaired using body filler at the right-rear corner. It seals fine but could use some sanding and shaping to get it more symmetrical with the other side.<br />
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<b>Engine:</b> It's an Australian 318i which has a single-cam belt-driven M40B18 motor hooked up to a Getrag 240 5-speed gearbox. I didn't do a compression test but it was running smooth and the exhaust was clean. It looked a bit oil stained around the sump but for a car this age, you can't be too fussy about that. After having had it for the last 5 months I've noticed 2 very minor issues. The engine is seeping oil. After de-greasing the engine bay, it starts to get a little stained around the oil sump after about 10,000km. I have to top up about 1L of oil after about 3000km. It's not very urgent as there hasn't been any stains or drips on the ground where I park the car. I might even leave it until when I have to do the timing belt at 210,000km. Coolant was a nice rich and bright green colour and was topped right up. The radiator and hoses all looked to be in fairly good condition too.<br />
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<b>Gearbox & Transmission: </b>The differential is in top condition - doesn't make any noise and locks up when it's supposed to. Gear shifts are all smooth and only a very slight notchiness when going into 4th but it's nothing to be concerned about. The gear shifter itself does feel a little sloppy and could use some new bushings. I do plan on installing a short shifter, so I'll put in new bushes then. Underneath I could notice some wetness around the gearbox drain plug which looks, smells and feels like oil. Hopefully its just a worn out drain plug which isn't sealing properly. It's a very tiny amount of oil and it doesn't leave any stains or drips where the car is parked.<br />
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<b>Clutch:</b> The clutch pedal contact point seems to be rather high and this could be a combination of the clutch being rather worn and the pedal needing to be adjusted. The clutch is, no doubt, old and used but the good thing is it's not at all slipping. It bites and bites well. When looking at the 3 pedals fully extended, the clutch pedal sits about 1-2cm's higher than the brake pedal and this is what leads me to believe that part of the problem can be solved by readjusting the pedal. I noticed a very soft rattle when the car is in neutral and the clutch pedal is fully released which goes away when the pedal is pressed. I suspect it could be a lay-shaft bearing. It's not an urgent repair but can be looked at when the clutch is replaced.<br />
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<b>Suspension & Steering:</b><b> </b>Older cars are generally built a lot sturdier and stiffer than modern cars. The philosophy at the time was to make them that way to withstand crashes. However, crash safety research has shown that by making the car softer and more flexible, it does a better job of protecting the passengers inside. Kind of like how running into a wall with a soft pillow is less painful than with a block of wood. The suspension and ride feels a lot stiffer than what I'm used to. There is a lot less body roll in tight and fast turns and the dampers do their job well (the car doesn't feel squishy and bouncy). The bushings (as with all old cars) do need replacing. They aren't worn to the point of being dangerous but I do think some fresh polyurethane bushings will make the car feel a lot crisper and responsive to steering inputs. The power steering fluid looked very dirty. It was a cloudy maroon colour instead of being a transparent cherry red (fresh ATF), so I'd be looking at changing it.<br />
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<b>Interior & Electrics:</b> The first thing I noticed was the driver's heelpad had been chewed through and the driver seat had a few tears in it. The dashboard had cracks (very common problem for E30's) and the gearshift boot had a small tear. All of these, have easy fixes. A new gearshift boot, is a 10-minute idiot-proof job. Get a new vinyl heelpad and glue it over the torn one. Torn seat upholstery? Seat covers! Dash board cracks? Some black adhesive resin to fill the cracks, some sandpaper and polish to level it all out, and to top it off, a dash mat! The alarm system doesn't work and has been completely de-activated. That's not a worry because I'll be getting a viper system installed anyway.<br />
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<b>Exterior:</b> The body was overall straight and there seems to be no signs of any major accident damage or repairs. The driver's door needs to be re-aligned as it doesn't seem to sit perfectly flush with the B-pillar when closed. As expected there are some minor dings and dents from careless shopping cart incidents, etc. The front bumper lip has one broken clip possibly from scraping over a parking curb but this should only cost about $2 or so to replace. Two of the side rubber trim pieces look a bit cracked and I'd like to replace them. Rust... there were small spots of surface rust around the boot lid edges, door edges and door jams. As they're only surface rust, just some rust converter, touch-up paint should fix it up. The last thing on the to-do list would be a clay, polish and buff to get the paint back to showroom looks.<br />
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<b>A Suitable Name: </b>I had to give the car a name... so being a white car with bits of black trim I named it "Cookie" as it sort of reminds of cookies & cream cheesecake!<br />
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<u><b>Acknowledgements:</b></u><br />
<u><b><br />
</b></u><br />
<b>Aunty Heather: </b>My lovely mum away from home. She's kept me out of trouble for the entire time I've been in Australia. She was gracious enough to accompany me to Sydney and helped arrange accommodation for us in Sydney. She kept me awake during the long overnight drive to Sydney and on the drive back to Brisbane.<br />
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<b>Asher & Irene:</b> These guys are just so lovely. At really short notice, they didn't just let us stay with them. They welcomed us, pampered us, spoiled us! Such wonderful hospitality is very rare.<br />
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<b>Fast & Furious Mobile Mechanic</b>: Owned and operated by Pedro. He's an up-front and honest guy who went out of his way to come help me out. He loves cars (performance cars to be more precise) and is definitely the guy to call if you need a trustworthy mobile mechanic around Sydney.<br />
<b>Phone: 0401 556 567 </b><br />
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<b>Merrylands Autos: </b>Big thanks to Frank and David. These guys are a family owned and run used car business who have a passion for what they do. They have two yards on that are just up the road from eachother on Woodville Rd at Merrylands/Granville, NSW.<br />
<b>www.merrylandsautos.com.au</b></div>darajmanhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/06195165606962377271noreply@blogger.com1